Movements of Ocean Water
Class 11 Geography · Fundamentals of Physical Geography · Chapter 13
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Summary
Ocean water is dynamic, moving horizontally as waves and currents and vertically as tides. Waves are energy, not water, moving across the surface; water particles travel in small circles while the wave train moves ahead, and waves break when the depth is less than half the wavelength. Waves get their energy from the wind, and their size depends on wind strength, duration and fetch. Tides are the periodical rise and fall of the sea level, mainly due to the gravitational attraction of the moon and, to a lesser extent, the sun, together with the centrifugal force, which create two tidal bulges. Tides are classified by frequency (semi-diurnal, diurnal, mixed) and by the sun-moon-earth positions: spring tides (higher, when sun, moon and earth are aligned, at full and new moon) and neap tides (lower, when sun and moon are at right angles). Tides aid navigation, fishing, desilting and tidal power generation. Ocean currents are continuous flows of water in a definite direction, driven by primary forces (solar heating, wind, gravity, the Coriolis force) and secondary forces (density differences). They are classified by depth (surface and deep-water) and by temperature (warm and cold). Currents influence climate, fog and the world's best fishing grounds where warm and cold currents mix.
Movements of Ocean Water
Key terms
Wave
the movement of energy across the ocean surface, where water particles travel in small circles.
Tide
the periodical rise and fall of the sea level, mainly due to the gravitational pull of the moon and sun.
Spring tide
a higher-than-normal tide when the sun, moon and earth are in a straight line (full and new moon).
Neap tide
a lower-than-normal tide when the sun and moon are at right angles to the earth.
Ocean current
a continuous flow of a large mass of water in a definite direction.
Gyre
a large circular system of ocean currents produced by the Coriolis force in the ocean basins.
Extra questions & answers
Try one from this chapter
Waves are essentially the movement of which across the ocean surface?